When should I have my kitten spayed/neutered?
It is recommended that your female pet be spayed or male pet be neutered by six months of age.
Spaying prevents unwanted pregnancy, prevents cancer of the reproductive system, eliminates the
potential for infections of the uterus later in life, and reduces the potential for breast cancer, especially
if performed before the first heat cycle. Neutering, or castration, of your male pet eliminates the
potential for cancer of the testicles. The urge to spay urine, or scent mark, will be greatly reduced or
even eliminated. The male is also no longer agitated by females and the strong hormonal drive to
reproduce. He will tend to roam less, decreasing the potential to be hit by a car or otherwise injured,
become lost, or be involved in territorial fights.
What should I feed my kitten or cat?
A high quality feline diet is essential for proper growth and development of your kitten and for
maintenance of a happy, healthy adult. Table food, scraps, and dog food are not adequate to maintain
the long term health of your feline companion. Given the huge number of foods available, choosing
the proper diet for your kitten or cat can be a very confusing experience. Your pet's age, overall health,
exercise level, environment, and breed can all be factors to consider in choosing the right diet. Your
veterinarian or pet care professional can offer valuable advice on the best diet for your feline friend.
Most veterinarians recommend a predominantly dry food diet for normal pets as this will help maintain
good tooth and gum health.
Can I bathe my cat?
Yes, but how easily it is accomplished will depend on your cat. Some cats become highly agitated or
even aggressive when bathed. Others allow easy routine grooming. General grooming is an important
part of good coat and skin health for your pet. Many cats, especially those with short coats, are good
self groomers and rarely require bathing. However, a bath is appropriate whenever you want your
feline friend to be clean and smell fresh. The frequency will depend on coat length and type, self
grooming behavior, activity level, environment, and overall health. Also, be aware that over frequent
bathing, or use of harsh or drying products can dull the coat and cause dry, flaky, and sometimes itchy
skin. Consider your pet's other grooming needs including nail trims,ear cleaning, coat brushing if
appropriate for your feline companion's hair type.
Do you recommend declawing my cat?
There is some controversy over feline declawing. It should be an individual, personal decision based
on your situation, and the needs of your feline friend. Feline declaw surgery involves the permanent
removal of the nails of the front feet. In rare cases, the back feet nails may also be removed. The
procedure is usually performed to prevent cats from damaging furniture or other items by scratching.
Declawing should be considered only for cats that will be indoor pets. Many cats can be trained to use
a scratching post and receive frequent nail trims and may not need declawing.
Two versions of the surgery are most common: amputation of the toe tip up to the first joint, or
amputation of the nail bed only. Both procedures must be performed under general anesthesia and
involve some post surgical pain and home care. Younger cats seem to recovery more quickly and may
exhibit fewer pain related behaviors than older animals. If declawing is desired, performing it at spay
or neuter time is recommended.
My cat is spraying in the house, what can I do?
Urine marking (spraying) is usually a cat's way to mark territory. The marking behavior is most
frequently seen in adult males that have not been neutered. Occasionally, it can be a indicator of
urinary tract or other disease. Have your pet examined by a veterinarian to determine if the urine
spraying is behavioral or medical. Behavioral urine marking in males can often be reduced or
eliminated by neutering. The best prevention for male urine spraying is neutering by six months of age
as most young male cats have not started to urine mark by that time.
It will also be helpful to thoroughly and promptly clean urine marked areas. A cenzymatic odor
neutralizer may be required to completely remove the scent. Cats often continue to urinate in an area
that already has an odor.
My cat is urinating in the house and not in the litter box, what can I do?
Abnormal urination can often be a sign of potentially serious urinary tract or other disease.
Inappropriate urination may also be behavioral. Any animal that exhibits abnormal urination should be
promptly evaluated by a veterinarian to determine if the problem is medical or behavioral. Don't delay
in having your feline friend examined. Quick treatment of urinary system disease offers a better
prognosis, costs less, and gives earlier relief for any discomfort your pet may have. If it is determined
that your pet has a behavioral urination problem, there are several strategies to help control the
undesirable habit.
Here are some general suggestions for behavioral urination problems:
Many cats have litter type or litter box location preferences. If your pet is used to a certain type of litter
and box location, continue to use it. Many prefer a quiet, low traffic area.
Clean the litter box very frequently. Some cats will refuse to use a dirty box.
Thoroughly and promptly clean soiled areas.
In cases where a pet always soils in the same spot, after cleaning and deodorizing, you may need to
physically cover the area (with a piece of furniture or a box) or close a door to prevent access.
Sometimes, this will break a location specific behavioral soiling problem.
What is feline urinary tract disease or urinary tract syndrome?
Feline urinary tract syndrome refers to the lower urinary organs and is also called Lower Urinary Tract
Disease (L.U.T.D.). It is an infection or inflammation of the bladder and/or the urethra (the canal that
carries urine from the bladder to outside the body). In some instances, L.U.T.D. can lead to formation
of stones in the bladder. Numerous factors contribute to the development of this disease. Examples
are: improper mineral balance in the diet, diets that promote too high or too low a urine pH, bacteria,
viruses, infrequent urination, decreased water intake, stress, obesity, tumors of the urinary tract, and
congenital defects, etc.
Signs of the disease can include: urinating in inappropriate locations, frequent or painful urination,
blood tinged or strong smelling urine, excess licking of the genital area, etc. Untreated urinary tract
disease can progress rapidly to a partial or complete blockage of the urethra (the canal that carries
urine from the bladder to outside the body), allowing little or no urine to be voided. This type of
blockage is life threatening, and can quickly lead death as waste products build up to toxic levels in
the animal's body. Signs of blockage include: inability to urinate, straining or pain that may resemble
constipation, depression, abdominal pain, difficulty walking, vomiting, etc.
If your pet has any of these signs, have him or her examined by a veterinarian immediately. Don't
delay in having your feline friend examined. Quick treatment of urinary system disease offers a better
prognosis, costs less, and gives earlier relief for any discomfort your pet may have.
My cat has fleas, what can I do?
Start a complete flea control program immediately. Fleas live by sucking the blood of your pets. They
can bite humans as well. Fleas can cause discomfort by biting, anemia, skin allergies, spread disease
and transmit tapeworms. Spare your pet the discomfort of a continued infestation.
An effective flea control program must address three points: treatment of the pet (or pets), the entire
house, and the yard. All pets that can contract fleas MUST be treated ( fish, birds, reptiles, or small and
furry pets don't need treatment). There are many safe and effective products for adult pets as well as
puppies and kittens ( ferrets and rabbits too).
For house treatment, begin with very thorough vacuuming. Be sure to get under everything- furniture,
rugs, etc. Don't forget the basement or garage. Throw out the vacuum bag after use to prevent fleas
from crawling back out. After cleaning, use a professional bomb or spray according to the label
directions. Treat the entire area, even places not frequented by your pet. You may need to vacuum and
treat furniture according the manufacturers' recommendations as well. Be sure to remove all pets and
family members from the area while spraying and until it is safe to return them.
For safe and effective use, always read and follow the label directions for all flea control products.
When will my cat begin to have heat cycles and get pregnant?
Young female cats can first come into heat as young as 5 months of age, but usually don't until
between 6 and 9 months. Some may not cycle until one year of age. To avoid pregnancy, cancer of the
reproductive system, and the potential for infections of the uterus later in life, your pet should be
spayed around 6 months of age. This holds true for indoor cats as well. During a heat cycle, even
timid, young, indoor cats may do their best to get outside to reach males. It only takes one quick
escape outdoors for your feline friend to become pregnant.
I think my cat is in heat- how do I tell?
Unspayed cats often repeatedly cycle through heat until they are spayed or bred. The frequently
obnoxious heat cycle behaviors to look forward to include constant, loud vocalizing, rubbing and
rolling, placing the hind quarters up in the air while flagging the tail, urine spraying, scratching at doors
or windows, and many attempts to get outdoors. The female may also receive loud midnight
serenades by courting tomcats. Interested males may also urine mark the area and fight amongst
themselves.
Young female cats can first come into heat as young as 5 months of age, but usually don't until
between 6 and 9 months. Some may not cycle until one year of age. To avoid pregnancy, cancer of the
reproductive system, and the potential for infections of the uterus later in life, your pet should be
spayed by 6 months of age. This holds true for indoor cats as well. During a heat cycle, even timid, or
young indoor cats may do their best to get outside to reach males. It only takes one quick escape
outdoors for your feline friend to become pregnant.
When can I breed my cat?
A good question to consider before breeding any animal is: Should my pet have offspring? Sadly,
there are millions of animals put to sleep in the U.S. each year because there are not enough homes
to go around. Responsible breeders will allow their healthy pets to have offspring only to improve the
breed, not as an educational experiment for the family, or solely for monetary gain. Good breeders
also take the responsibility to provide good homes and quality medical care, including first
vaccinations and deworming, to all the offspring their pets produce. It takes a fair amount of hard work,
time, and money.
If you have decided that the work and responsibility of pet breeding is for you, be sure your pets are
healthy and fully vaccinated. This allows the mothers to pass good protective immunity to their kittens.
Cats bred after 18 months of age tend to make better mothers and may have less pregnancy or kitten
care problems. Proper pre- and post-natal veterinary medical care and diet are very important for
breeding females and their kittens. Many books and resources exist to help you.
My cat is not getting along with the new cat, what can I do?
Existing cats may often need an adjustment period when a new pet enters the household. Gradual
introduction is often needed. This can be accomplish by shutting the new cat in a room, with food,
water, liter box, bed, and toys for several days or longer. This gives the existing cat(s) time to become
familiar with the new pet's odor and vocalizations. The older the established cat is, the longer an
adjustment period may be needed. Some older cats never come to accept a new family member. After
an adjustment period, the cats should be allowed to interact between a slightly opened door. A cage
or screen door between cats can also be used for this introductory period. Do not force the cats to
interact- allow them to do it on their own. Some growling, hissing, swatting, and hiding will be normal.
Intervention may be needed if the cats truly attempt to injure each other. Most cats will eventually
adjust to the new family member if given time and not crowded.
A veterinary examination is very highly recommended for all new pets, ideally before they enter the
household. New pets should be evaluated for overall health, vaccine status, and potential to carry
disease or parasites to your existing feline friend(s).
I found an abandoned kitten, how can I feed and take care of it?
That really depends on how old the kitten is and what state of health he or she is in. Consider a
veterinary examination to help determine the kitten's age, exact care needs, or if any health problems
exist. If the kitten can eat and drink well on its own, he or she may need only routine kitten care (safe
environment, kitten food, water, toys, bed, liter box, veterinary care, etc.) If the kitten is too small to eat
and drink well unassisted, or does not have the eyes open yet, you will have to act as a replacement
mother. Extremely young kittens need to be fed kitten milk replacement according to the
manufacturers' directions, as often as every 2-4 hours, depending on age. They may require a safe
heat source, such as a heating pad and an enclosed nest area (like a box). If a heating pad is used,
be sure to follow all the manufacturers' safety instructions and only heat about 1/2 of the nest area on
a low setting. The kittens can regulate their body temperature better if allowed to move between
warmer and cooler (room temperature) spots in the nest. Extremely young kittens cannot pass stool
and urine by themselves. They need gentle rubbing in the genital areas (with moist warm cotton balls
or a very soft moist cloth) to help them pass bodily wastes. This should be done every time the kittens
are fed. Any stool or urine MUST be gently, but completely, cleaned off the skin to avoid potentially
severe skin rashes and even blistering from body wastes. Numerous books and other resources exist
to help you.
What vaccines does my kitten or cat need and how often?
Having your kitten properly vaccinated is one of the most important ways to keep him or her happy and
healthy. Vaccines protect against many serious and even fatal diseases.
The following vaccines are imperative to your feline companion's health: Distemper/Upper
Respiratory: This 4 in 1 vaccine protects against several very serious diseases.
Rabies: This disease is fatal for all mammals, including humans.
Feline Leukemia: This disease can easily be fatal to your feline companion. (It is usually given after the
kitten has tested negative for the disease).
Feline Infectious Peritonitis: Another fatal disease.
Young kittens usually need several sets of vaccination boosters ( just like children) to provide them
with as much protection as possible. Adult cats that are properly vaccinated should be boostered
yearly for most vaccines. Vaccination schedules vary depending on age, overall health, state
regulations, vaccination type, and risk of exposure.
Do I need to brush my cat's teeth?
Yes! Home dental care is one of the best ways to help keep your pet's teeth and gums healthy. Start as
early as possible in your feline friend's life so he or she will become accustomed to having the mouth
handled. Use a moistened, soft, pet or child's toothbrush, finger tooth brush, gauze around a finger, or
a cotton swab. Pet toothpaste is your best option. Stay away from human tooth paste, baking soda or
salt. Use gentle brushing motions to clean the teeth and gums, as you would your own. Most animals
will not allow you to brush the inside surface of the teeth, but at least clean the outside (check)
surfaces. Be sure to reach the back upper molars and canine teeth. These teeth tend to quickly build
up tartar. Your pet's teeth should be brushed as often as possible, ideally every day. Pets that have a
significant tartar build up or gingivitis may need a veterinary dental cleaning to prevent serious oral
disease that can shorten your pet's life if left untreated.
Why is my cat scratching at his/her ears?
An occasional scratch is normal. However, scratching or pawing at the ears or head can be an
indication of ear infection, foreign bodies, injury, excess ear wax, or skin problems. Some ear
problems may not be easily visible and require a deep ear exam by a veterinarian to be properly to
evaluated. Any discharge, odor, redness, pain, swelling, or masses may indicate an infection or other
abnormality. If you suspect your pet has an ear problem, visit your veterinarian immediately. Prompt
treatment offers a better prognosis, reduces the potential for chronic disease, hearing loss, and gives
earlier relief for any discomfort your pet may have.
How can I stop my cat from scratching on furniture?
Scratching is a normal feline behavior. The difficult part is training them to use something other than
furniture or door frames. The best choice is to offer a sturdy scratching post from the time your pet is a
kitten. Play with him or her on and near the post, offer treats, toys, and praise when your pet uses it.
Many cats will be attracted to scratching posts that have been rubbed with cat nip. Some cats will
scratch on cardboard boxes or scratch pads, while others will only use tall, sturdier posts that do not tip
over. Older cats that have developed a furniture damaging habit will be harder to train to a post, but
can still learn. Frequent nail trims can decrease the damage caused by scratching. Some owners find
help with a soft, plastic nail cap that is temporarily glued to each nail. This can have mixed success as
the cats may still scratch ( with plastic blunted nails), and the caps need frequent re-application.
Covering a favorite scratching area with something slick or tacky like plastic sheeting, or double stick
tape may discourage the behavior as well. The only way to insure a cat cannot scratch, is surgical
removal of the nails, or declawing. These cats will still exhibit scratching behavior, but no nails exist to
shred objects.
Does my kitten need vitamins?
A high quality feline diet is essential for proper growth and development of your kitten and for
maintenance of a happy, healthy adult. This includes a good balance of vitamins and minerals. Table
food, scraps, and dog food are not adequate to maintain the long term health of your feline
companion.
Growing kittens, geriatric pets, as well as stressed, pregnant, nursing, or ill pets and those recovering
from surgery, can all benefit from appropriate vitamin supplementation. Chose a supplement
designed for your pet's needs. Given the huge number of supplements and foods available, choosing
the proper items for your kitten or cat can be a very confusing experience. Your pet's age, overall
health, exercise level, environment, and breed can all be factors to consider in choosing the right diet
and supplement. Your veterinarian or pet care professional can offer valuable advice on the best
products for your feline friend.
The inside corners of my cat's eyes are always messy- do I need to clean them?
Yes, any excess mucous, secretions, tears, or matter should be routinely cleaned from these areas.
Most pets will collect a small amount of eye secretion or debris at the inside eye lid corners, just like
we do. Some breeds, especially many short faced breeds, can produce a large amount of tears or
debris and may also have chronic hair staining at the eyelid corners from proteins in the tears.
However, be sure NOT to mistake an eye infection or other problem for "normal" secretions. If your pet
has any eye redness, swelling, pain, excess discharge, loss of vision, changes from normal eye ball
appearance, excess blinking or pawing at the eyes, he or she may have an infection or problem. If you
have any concerns about your pet's eyes, see your veterinarian immediately.
To clean normal tears or debris from the eyelids, use a moistened, soft, clean cloth, cotton ball, or
tissue to gently wipe any secretions away. Avoid rubbing or touching the eye ball, as this can cause
injury to delicate eye structures. If a large amount of debris has built up, you may need to soak the area
with your moist cloth to soften the secretions before removal. Some pets may need this cleaning
repeated daily. Some breeds with long facial hair will greatly benefit from careful trimming or
grooming to keep hair out of the eyes. If you choose to trim this hair yourself, use care to avoid injury to
the eye or eyelids. Consider using a professional groomer as well.
It is recommended that your female pet be spayed or male pet be neutered by six months of age.
Spaying prevents unwanted pregnancy, prevents cancer of the reproductive system, eliminates the
potential for infections of the uterus later in life, and reduces the potential for breast cancer, especially
if performed before the first heat cycle. Neutering, or castration, of your male pet eliminates the
potential for cancer of the testicles. The urge to spay urine, or scent mark, will be greatly reduced or
even eliminated. The male is also no longer agitated by females and the strong hormonal drive to
reproduce. He will tend to roam less, decreasing the potential to be hit by a car or otherwise injured,
become lost, or be involved in territorial fights.
What should I feed my kitten or cat?
A high quality feline diet is essential for proper growth and development of your kitten and for
maintenance of a happy, healthy adult. Table food, scraps, and dog food are not adequate to maintain
the long term health of your feline companion. Given the huge number of foods available, choosing
the proper diet for your kitten or cat can be a very confusing experience. Your pet's age, overall health,
exercise level, environment, and breed can all be factors to consider in choosing the right diet. Your
veterinarian or pet care professional can offer valuable advice on the best diet for your feline friend.
Most veterinarians recommend a predominantly dry food diet for normal pets as this will help maintain
good tooth and gum health.
Can I bathe my cat?
Yes, but how easily it is accomplished will depend on your cat. Some cats become highly agitated or
even aggressive when bathed. Others allow easy routine grooming. General grooming is an important
part of good coat and skin health for your pet. Many cats, especially those with short coats, are good
self groomers and rarely require bathing. However, a bath is appropriate whenever you want your
feline friend to be clean and smell fresh. The frequency will depend on coat length and type, self
grooming behavior, activity level, environment, and overall health. Also, be aware that over frequent
bathing, or use of harsh or drying products can dull the coat and cause dry, flaky, and sometimes itchy
skin. Consider your pet's other grooming needs including nail trims,ear cleaning, coat brushing if
appropriate for your feline companion's hair type.
Do you recommend declawing my cat?
There is some controversy over feline declawing. It should be an individual, personal decision based
on your situation, and the needs of your feline friend. Feline declaw surgery involves the permanent
removal of the nails of the front feet. In rare cases, the back feet nails may also be removed. The
procedure is usually performed to prevent cats from damaging furniture or other items by scratching.
Declawing should be considered only for cats that will be indoor pets. Many cats can be trained to use
a scratching post and receive frequent nail trims and may not need declawing.
Two versions of the surgery are most common: amputation of the toe tip up to the first joint, or
amputation of the nail bed only. Both procedures must be performed under general anesthesia and
involve some post surgical pain and home care. Younger cats seem to recovery more quickly and may
exhibit fewer pain related behaviors than older animals. If declawing is desired, performing it at spay
or neuter time is recommended.
My cat is spraying in the house, what can I do?
Urine marking (spraying) is usually a cat's way to mark territory. The marking behavior is most
frequently seen in adult males that have not been neutered. Occasionally, it can be a indicator of
urinary tract or other disease. Have your pet examined by a veterinarian to determine if the urine
spraying is behavioral or medical. Behavioral urine marking in males can often be reduced or
eliminated by neutering. The best prevention for male urine spraying is neutering by six months of age
as most young male cats have not started to urine mark by that time.
It will also be helpful to thoroughly and promptly clean urine marked areas. A cenzymatic odor
neutralizer may be required to completely remove the scent. Cats often continue to urinate in an area
that already has an odor.
My cat is urinating in the house and not in the litter box, what can I do?
Abnormal urination can often be a sign of potentially serious urinary tract or other disease.
Inappropriate urination may also be behavioral. Any animal that exhibits abnormal urination should be
promptly evaluated by a veterinarian to determine if the problem is medical or behavioral. Don't delay
in having your feline friend examined. Quick treatment of urinary system disease offers a better
prognosis, costs less, and gives earlier relief for any discomfort your pet may have. If it is determined
that your pet has a behavioral urination problem, there are several strategies to help control the
undesirable habit.
Here are some general suggestions for behavioral urination problems:
Many cats have litter type or litter box location preferences. If your pet is used to a certain type of litter
and box location, continue to use it. Many prefer a quiet, low traffic area.
Clean the litter box very frequently. Some cats will refuse to use a dirty box.
Thoroughly and promptly clean soiled areas.
In cases where a pet always soils in the same spot, after cleaning and deodorizing, you may need to
physically cover the area (with a piece of furniture or a box) or close a door to prevent access.
Sometimes, this will break a location specific behavioral soiling problem.
What is feline urinary tract disease or urinary tract syndrome?
Feline urinary tract syndrome refers to the lower urinary organs and is also called Lower Urinary Tract
Disease (L.U.T.D.). It is an infection or inflammation of the bladder and/or the urethra (the canal that
carries urine from the bladder to outside the body). In some instances, L.U.T.D. can lead to formation
of stones in the bladder. Numerous factors contribute to the development of this disease. Examples
are: improper mineral balance in the diet, diets that promote too high or too low a urine pH, bacteria,
viruses, infrequent urination, decreased water intake, stress, obesity, tumors of the urinary tract, and
congenital defects, etc.
Signs of the disease can include: urinating in inappropriate locations, frequent or painful urination,
blood tinged or strong smelling urine, excess licking of the genital area, etc. Untreated urinary tract
disease can progress rapidly to a partial or complete blockage of the urethra (the canal that carries
urine from the bladder to outside the body), allowing little or no urine to be voided. This type of
blockage is life threatening, and can quickly lead death as waste products build up to toxic levels in
the animal's body. Signs of blockage include: inability to urinate, straining or pain that may resemble
constipation, depression, abdominal pain, difficulty walking, vomiting, etc.
If your pet has any of these signs, have him or her examined by a veterinarian immediately. Don't
delay in having your feline friend examined. Quick treatment of urinary system disease offers a better
prognosis, costs less, and gives earlier relief for any discomfort your pet may have.
My cat has fleas, what can I do?
Start a complete flea control program immediately. Fleas live by sucking the blood of your pets. They
can bite humans as well. Fleas can cause discomfort by biting, anemia, skin allergies, spread disease
and transmit tapeworms. Spare your pet the discomfort of a continued infestation.
An effective flea control program must address three points: treatment of the pet (or pets), the entire
house, and the yard. All pets that can contract fleas MUST be treated ( fish, birds, reptiles, or small and
furry pets don't need treatment). There are many safe and effective products for adult pets as well as
puppies and kittens ( ferrets and rabbits too).
For house treatment, begin with very thorough vacuuming. Be sure to get under everything- furniture,
rugs, etc. Don't forget the basement or garage. Throw out the vacuum bag after use to prevent fleas
from crawling back out. After cleaning, use a professional bomb or spray according to the label
directions. Treat the entire area, even places not frequented by your pet. You may need to vacuum and
treat furniture according the manufacturers' recommendations as well. Be sure to remove all pets and
family members from the area while spraying and until it is safe to return them.
For safe and effective use, always read and follow the label directions for all flea control products.
When will my cat begin to have heat cycles and get pregnant?
Young female cats can first come into heat as young as 5 months of age, but usually don't until
between 6 and 9 months. Some may not cycle until one year of age. To avoid pregnancy, cancer of the
reproductive system, and the potential for infections of the uterus later in life, your pet should be
spayed around 6 months of age. This holds true for indoor cats as well. During a heat cycle, even
timid, young, indoor cats may do their best to get outside to reach males. It only takes one quick
escape outdoors for your feline friend to become pregnant.
I think my cat is in heat- how do I tell?
Unspayed cats often repeatedly cycle through heat until they are spayed or bred. The frequently
obnoxious heat cycle behaviors to look forward to include constant, loud vocalizing, rubbing and
rolling, placing the hind quarters up in the air while flagging the tail, urine spraying, scratching at doors
or windows, and many attempts to get outdoors. The female may also receive loud midnight
serenades by courting tomcats. Interested males may also urine mark the area and fight amongst
themselves.
Young female cats can first come into heat as young as 5 months of age, but usually don't until
between 6 and 9 months. Some may not cycle until one year of age. To avoid pregnancy, cancer of the
reproductive system, and the potential for infections of the uterus later in life, your pet should be
spayed by 6 months of age. This holds true for indoor cats as well. During a heat cycle, even timid, or
young indoor cats may do their best to get outside to reach males. It only takes one quick escape
outdoors for your feline friend to become pregnant.
When can I breed my cat?
A good question to consider before breeding any animal is: Should my pet have offspring? Sadly,
there are millions of animals put to sleep in the U.S. each year because there are not enough homes
to go around. Responsible breeders will allow their healthy pets to have offspring only to improve the
breed, not as an educational experiment for the family, or solely for monetary gain. Good breeders
also take the responsibility to provide good homes and quality medical care, including first
vaccinations and deworming, to all the offspring their pets produce. It takes a fair amount of hard work,
time, and money.
If you have decided that the work and responsibility of pet breeding is for you, be sure your pets are
healthy and fully vaccinated. This allows the mothers to pass good protective immunity to their kittens.
Cats bred after 18 months of age tend to make better mothers and may have less pregnancy or kitten
care problems. Proper pre- and post-natal veterinary medical care and diet are very important for
breeding females and their kittens. Many books and resources exist to help you.
My cat is not getting along with the new cat, what can I do?
Existing cats may often need an adjustment period when a new pet enters the household. Gradual
introduction is often needed. This can be accomplish by shutting the new cat in a room, with food,
water, liter box, bed, and toys for several days or longer. This gives the existing cat(s) time to become
familiar with the new pet's odor and vocalizations. The older the established cat is, the longer an
adjustment period may be needed. Some older cats never come to accept a new family member. After
an adjustment period, the cats should be allowed to interact between a slightly opened door. A cage
or screen door between cats can also be used for this introductory period. Do not force the cats to
interact- allow them to do it on their own. Some growling, hissing, swatting, and hiding will be normal.
Intervention may be needed if the cats truly attempt to injure each other. Most cats will eventually
adjust to the new family member if given time and not crowded.
A veterinary examination is very highly recommended for all new pets, ideally before they enter the
household. New pets should be evaluated for overall health, vaccine status, and potential to carry
disease or parasites to your existing feline friend(s).
I found an abandoned kitten, how can I feed and take care of it?
That really depends on how old the kitten is and what state of health he or she is in. Consider a
veterinary examination to help determine the kitten's age, exact care needs, or if any health problems
exist. If the kitten can eat and drink well on its own, he or she may need only routine kitten care (safe
environment, kitten food, water, toys, bed, liter box, veterinary care, etc.) If the kitten is too small to eat
and drink well unassisted, or does not have the eyes open yet, you will have to act as a replacement
mother. Extremely young kittens need to be fed kitten milk replacement according to the
manufacturers' directions, as often as every 2-4 hours, depending on age. They may require a safe
heat source, such as a heating pad and an enclosed nest area (like a box). If a heating pad is used,
be sure to follow all the manufacturers' safety instructions and only heat about 1/2 of the nest area on
a low setting. The kittens can regulate their body temperature better if allowed to move between
warmer and cooler (room temperature) spots in the nest. Extremely young kittens cannot pass stool
and urine by themselves. They need gentle rubbing in the genital areas (with moist warm cotton balls
or a very soft moist cloth) to help them pass bodily wastes. This should be done every time the kittens
are fed. Any stool or urine MUST be gently, but completely, cleaned off the skin to avoid potentially
severe skin rashes and even blistering from body wastes. Numerous books and other resources exist
to help you.
What vaccines does my kitten or cat need and how often?
Having your kitten properly vaccinated is one of the most important ways to keep him or her happy and
healthy. Vaccines protect against many serious and even fatal diseases.
The following vaccines are imperative to your feline companion's health: Distemper/Upper
Respiratory: This 4 in 1 vaccine protects against several very serious diseases.
Rabies: This disease is fatal for all mammals, including humans.
Feline Leukemia: This disease can easily be fatal to your feline companion. (It is usually given after the
kitten has tested negative for the disease).
Feline Infectious Peritonitis: Another fatal disease.
Young kittens usually need several sets of vaccination boosters ( just like children) to provide them
with as much protection as possible. Adult cats that are properly vaccinated should be boostered
yearly for most vaccines. Vaccination schedules vary depending on age, overall health, state
regulations, vaccination type, and risk of exposure.
Do I need to brush my cat's teeth?
Yes! Home dental care is one of the best ways to help keep your pet's teeth and gums healthy. Start as
early as possible in your feline friend's life so he or she will become accustomed to having the mouth
handled. Use a moistened, soft, pet or child's toothbrush, finger tooth brush, gauze around a finger, or
a cotton swab. Pet toothpaste is your best option. Stay away from human tooth paste, baking soda or
salt. Use gentle brushing motions to clean the teeth and gums, as you would your own. Most animals
will not allow you to brush the inside surface of the teeth, but at least clean the outside (check)
surfaces. Be sure to reach the back upper molars and canine teeth. These teeth tend to quickly build
up tartar. Your pet's teeth should be brushed as often as possible, ideally every day. Pets that have a
significant tartar build up or gingivitis may need a veterinary dental cleaning to prevent serious oral
disease that can shorten your pet's life if left untreated.
Why is my cat scratching at his/her ears?
An occasional scratch is normal. However, scratching or pawing at the ears or head can be an
indication of ear infection, foreign bodies, injury, excess ear wax, or skin problems. Some ear
problems may not be easily visible and require a deep ear exam by a veterinarian to be properly to
evaluated. Any discharge, odor, redness, pain, swelling, or masses may indicate an infection or other
abnormality. If you suspect your pet has an ear problem, visit your veterinarian immediately. Prompt
treatment offers a better prognosis, reduces the potential for chronic disease, hearing loss, and gives
earlier relief for any discomfort your pet may have.
How can I stop my cat from scratching on furniture?
Scratching is a normal feline behavior. The difficult part is training them to use something other than
furniture or door frames. The best choice is to offer a sturdy scratching post from the time your pet is a
kitten. Play with him or her on and near the post, offer treats, toys, and praise when your pet uses it.
Many cats will be attracted to scratching posts that have been rubbed with cat nip. Some cats will
scratch on cardboard boxes or scratch pads, while others will only use tall, sturdier posts that do not tip
over. Older cats that have developed a furniture damaging habit will be harder to train to a post, but
can still learn. Frequent nail trims can decrease the damage caused by scratching. Some owners find
help with a soft, plastic nail cap that is temporarily glued to each nail. This can have mixed success as
the cats may still scratch ( with plastic blunted nails), and the caps need frequent re-application.
Covering a favorite scratching area with something slick or tacky like plastic sheeting, or double stick
tape may discourage the behavior as well. The only way to insure a cat cannot scratch, is surgical
removal of the nails, or declawing. These cats will still exhibit scratching behavior, but no nails exist to
shred objects.
Does my kitten need vitamins?
A high quality feline diet is essential for proper growth and development of your kitten and for
maintenance of a happy, healthy adult. This includes a good balance of vitamins and minerals. Table
food, scraps, and dog food are not adequate to maintain the long term health of your feline
companion.
Growing kittens, geriatric pets, as well as stressed, pregnant, nursing, or ill pets and those recovering
from surgery, can all benefit from appropriate vitamin supplementation. Chose a supplement
designed for your pet's needs. Given the huge number of supplements and foods available, choosing
the proper items for your kitten or cat can be a very confusing experience. Your pet's age, overall
health, exercise level, environment, and breed can all be factors to consider in choosing the right diet
and supplement. Your veterinarian or pet care professional can offer valuable advice on the best
products for your feline friend.
The inside corners of my cat's eyes are always messy- do I need to clean them?
Yes, any excess mucous, secretions, tears, or matter should be routinely cleaned from these areas.
Most pets will collect a small amount of eye secretion or debris at the inside eye lid corners, just like
we do. Some breeds, especially many short faced breeds, can produce a large amount of tears or
debris and may also have chronic hair staining at the eyelid corners from proteins in the tears.
However, be sure NOT to mistake an eye infection or other problem for "normal" secretions. If your pet
has any eye redness, swelling, pain, excess discharge, loss of vision, changes from normal eye ball
appearance, excess blinking or pawing at the eyes, he or she may have an infection or problem. If you
have any concerns about your pet's eyes, see your veterinarian immediately.
To clean normal tears or debris from the eyelids, use a moistened, soft, clean cloth, cotton ball, or
tissue to gently wipe any secretions away. Avoid rubbing or touching the eye ball, as this can cause
injury to delicate eye structures. If a large amount of debris has built up, you may need to soak the area
with your moist cloth to soften the secretions before removal. Some pets may need this cleaning
repeated daily. Some breeds with long facial hair will greatly benefit from careful trimming or
grooming to keep hair out of the eyes. If you choose to trim this hair yourself, use care to avoid injury to
the eye or eyelids. Consider using a professional groomer as well.
